For those of you who don’t know, I am a university level fashion marketing student. With that being said, a few weeks ago I was assigned a report on what will happen in the fashion industry post Covid 19. Since this was an assignment that I put a lot into and used insightful sources, I felt that it would be something you would enjoy reading. Here it is…
What will fashion look like when we come out of this time of Coronavirus?
This is a question where there will not be a definite answer until the event is occurring and it will most likely vary upon individuals. However, looking specifically at luxurious fashion, I am predicting this outcome. Styles will consist of celebratory motifs displayed in high end formalwear, daywear, and athletic apparel (though this category is technically separate, luxury brands do sell sportswear). This is because after many dark eras throughout out world, the fashions that emerged after the fact have been very colorful, elaborate, detailed, or whatever was needed to show a sign of celebration that the rough times were over. Examples date all the way back to detailed renaissance fashions after the bubonic plague and continue through the glittering 1920s after WWI, the flowering “new look” of the 1950s, and the bright bold colors and flowing silhouettes of the 1970s after the Vietnam War. The only difference that could cause this outcome to not occur is that the world would not be celebrating a victory, it would be mourning many losses and adjusting to a “new normal.”
As stated, this is a prediction so there are no facts to prove an outcome, however, sources are stating that the importance of fashion will stay just as relevant. This is because not only is the industry an essential part of many nations economy, fashion is a lifestyle. Faran Krentcil from Harper’s Bazaar explains in her article titled Ok, Fashion. What Happens Now in the Coronavirus Pandemic? how “Style is a lot like love: even when you try, you just can’t stop it. That’s because just like Beyoncé, fashion is a triple threat: it’s a billion-dollar industry, a vital and easily accessible art form, and—because everyone gets dressed in the morning—its goods are both necessary and universal” (Krentcil, 2020). No matter what happens during this time, individuals will continue appreciating fashion. In fact, many are looking forward to being able to leave their homes simply to have a reason to dress up. In addition, people in desperation still do dress properly to attend zoom meeting just to feel like themselves. An article from Vogue titled Why I’m Ditching My Sweatshirts for These Zoom-Ready Tops states “One of the ways I have re-established a sense of normalcy in my life has been by getting dressed every morning” (Elizee, 2020). The author found it better for her mental health to dress in appropriate business attire for zoom meeting because it put her in a productive mindset and made her feel happier overall. This is how many working individuals along with university students feel.
Going off of this, I previously mentioned how people have a desire to leave their homes just to have a reason to dress up. That specific statement primary applies to those interested in fashion, however, the desire to go out and move is stronger than ever amongst the majority of individuals. Therefore, once the pandemic is over, people will often resort to athletic wear so they can go to the gym, go for a hike, or anything outdoors. With that being said, luxury brands will further promote their athleisure wear through social media, a free method. Since this desire to both leave the house, and get active will be celebrated once it occurs, athletic wear along with daywear and formalwear could very easily be festive.
Now, based off my prior research, here are my own predictions. Luxury fashions could include colorful floral or patterned apparel for daywear that is flowing to allow people to move around easily. Menswear could be bolder, less constricting, and portray an array of patterns and colors. In fact, male celebrities are shown in more colorful and glamorous suits at red carpet events. It could easily be brought into every day wear in the luxury market. Women’s formal wear could come in an array of pastels, bold colors, and metallics to show a sense of celebration. Glitter and fringe could be present as well as overuse of designer logos to portray wealth after economic hardship. This was common during the 2008 recession. To further mimic the 1920s, silhouettes might become looser to once again allow movement. However, since body positivity has been a huge movement during the past decade, an array of silhouettes will continue to be used so everyone can find something that flatters them. Finally, athletic wear will continue to become more glamourized since athleisure has been a very popular style these past years. Higher end brands such as Lululemon, Alo Yoga, and Alala along with designer fitness apparel (Chanel, Gucci, Ralph Lauren) have always incorporated current fashion trends into their fitness wear by using specific colors and coordinating sets. However, I do believe that soon enough, athletic wear will contain more glitter, patterns (which are already present) and details such as buttons to add a stylish effect without loosing practicality.
To sum up this section, one more very important statement must be made, luxury fashion sales have certainly decreased due to the poor economic state and lack of need at the moment. According to a case study from The Business of Fashion “In the first quarter of 2020, global luxury sales will decline year-over-year by 25 to 30 percent, according to a new report from Bain. Right now, analysts are estimating that the market could contract up to 35 percent this year” (Sherman, 2020). In addition to that, fashion companies are primarily promoting their apparel through social media to save money as opposed to creating widespread ad campaigns. There is no denying that economic hardships and the lack of “need” for apparel to be worn out of the house isn’t strong. In fact, with slow delivery and the fear of bringing in germs, many people are only ordering necessary goods. However, once individuals are working again and the economy is restored, the fashion industry will thrive. Why? Because as stated before, fashion is a lifestyle.
What will designers put on their runways this fall?
The most difficult aspect of this question is will there be runway shows this fall? Just like any event, it can physically be broadcasted online, but are new lines currently being manufactured? As we already know, many current designers are using their time and recourses to manufacture face masks and hospital gowns for those in need. Does this allow them to still prepare for fashion week since it is technically non-essential? For many newer designers, this is not the case since they do not have significant past profits to fall back on. London based designer Charles Jeffery is preparing his new line despite the coronavirus pandemic. An article from The Business of Fashion explains “’Known for shocking people with unpredictable, avant-garde designs, Jeffrey is turning to the familiar via his upcoming “Emergency Collection,” which is made up of 50 individual pieces — about half of his usual output. “The [collection] includes pieces that I know buyers will like and pieces that have good margins,” he said”’ (BOF Team, 2020). This is a designer who is becoming known for his avant-garde apparel and to get his image further mainstreamed, his newest collection is titled Emergency which is clearly inspired by the pandemic. With that being said, prior to this research on Charles Jeffery, I had a prediction on a potential controversy. This would be fashions inspired by the safety wear including face masks and hospital gowns. The general public would prefer to move on to happier times after the pandemic is over, however others would claim that history must be documented. Runway shows of newer designers could include loose fitting shift dresses that tie in the back to mimic hospital gowns along with a “fashionable” version of the face mask. Many may find collections like these creative, while others may find them offensive since they emerged from a serious situation. Of course, the more well established designers such as Chanel, Diane Von Furstenberg, Ralph Lauren, Chloe, and more will stick to their classic images while incorporating the festive motifs mentioned in part one since they have a specific clientele to appeal to. However, this can only occur if the economy restores in-time.
Moving on, assuming fashion week will occur this fall, it is very likely the shows will be broadcasted online. This is obviously due to social distancing and of course, fear. According to an Instagram post also by The Business of Fashion, fashion shows could potentially become a thing of the past. Their caption states “Do we still need fashion shows? As the deadly corona virus continues its spread, the travel bans and social distancing rules adopted by governments around the world have already forced the cancellations of the June men’s fashion weeks” (BOF, 2020). With that being said, if Fall Fashion Week 2020 is still on, the shows could easily be online. However, if the shows are still on, that would be a positive advancement which would once again connect to the celebratory aspect which will be portrayed in many of the fashions.
When it comes to specific looks the consumer will gravitate towards, as previously mentioned, celebratory looks will be popular. People will be happy to once again have a reason to dress up. Along with that, designers may want to mimic the 1920s for 2020s fashion, and finally, fashions have always been celebratory after dark times. As mentioned before, the renaissance after the bubonic plague is a prime example. These festive motifs will include an assortment of colors, bold, pastel, and metallics as well as an assortment of patterns and textures. Since avant-garde designers may use hospital wear as an inspiration for their collections, hospital gown style shift dresses may become popular with celebratory motifs.
How will the consumer be shopping differently?
Before digging into research, I’m going to make a few predictions. First things first, luxury or not, consumers will not be looking at second hand goods due to the fear of spreading germs. What if the previous owner had COVID 19 and now it’s on the apparel they’re selling? However, since I am specifically focusing on luxury, I will not be diving in on that. Most importantly, the majority of consumers will primarily stick to online shopping since not only its level of convenience, but people might find it to be safer due to less exposure to potential germs. Another major factor will be the economic state. If a large percentage of people have a lower discretionary income, they will be spending less on excessive amounts of short term trend pieces and more on sustainable classics with possible hints of the current trends.
Now, after conducting research, I am able to prove that e-commerce will be the way to go. However, the state of the economy will play the biggest role in consumer behavior. A case study from The Business of Fashion titled The Next Wave of Luxury E-Commerce states “But perhaps most disruptive is the growing competition from brands which have, in recent years, made their own e-commerce channels a bigger priority. Today, the online luxury establishment is running out of time to develop winning strategies, just as the coronavirus crisis pushes the economy into what is expected to be a deep recession, accelerating drastic changes in consumer behavior that were already underway” (Sherman, 2020). Before coronavirus was a consideration, retail was transitioning to online methods already. However, what companies are trying to figure out is what can they do to make their shopping experiences “better” than others? With that being said, people are going to be in a more conservative mindset when it comes to spending money on clothing. In addition to that, if people are unable to afford luxuries such as vacations, fancy dinners, or other excursions, would they have a need to purchase upscale clothing suitable for these events? The answer is no. This could eventually lead in a slower production of apparel steering the consumers away from fast fashion. An article titled The BoF Podcast: Li Edelkoort Says the Coronavirus Is a Representation of our Conscience explains “’In a post-Covid-19 climate, designers won’t have to make six collections a year or extra drops. It will “completely reset the way we produce, dress and consume”’ (BOF Team, 2020). In an economy where individuals will not be able to invest in a large number of luxury goods or indulge in temporary fast fashions, the manufacturers have to limit their lines so there will not be a significantly larger supply than demand which would only make the prices drop. Along with that, there will be a significantly smaller percentage that goes to waste. Overall, consumers will primarily resort to online shopping, and only purchase pieces they feel are necessary, sustainable, and know they will love. The average consumer will be less interesting in spending their money on “testing out” new styles.
Will clothes matter?
After the pandemic is over, clothes will most certainly matter especially since they currently do now when there is less of a need. In fact, during some of the darkest times in America, clothes were a source of light. A prime example would be the Great Depression. No, the general public could not afford luxury apparel, but celebrities and fashion icons were dressed in a glamorous manner to brighten the mood. The Fashion Institute of Technology’s Fashion History Website describes “While evening-wear became dominated by the body-skimming silhouette, daywear returned to romanticism and femininity. Day dresses came in a variety of patterns: floral, plaid, dots, and more abstract prints, like the zebra print suit in figure 5. They had clearly defined waists and fell between the mid-calf and just above the ankle” (Reddy, 2019). These elegant styles were portrayed by models in magazines such as Vogue, and in films such as Baby Face, The Divorcee, Mata Hari and more. As we already know, The Great Depression was the roughest time economically in the United States, and if fashion still mattered then, it will still matter when the pandemic is over.
Going off of this, what I described in part one will very likely be the case. People will have a desire to dress up since many individuals will be in a celebratory state of mind when they can finally return to their original or similar lifestyles. Just like in the 1930s, glamour will be present. Florals, satins, shine, and anything luscious will be all over social media and brand websites. In addition, consumers may find a need to display their wealth when the economy is restoring. They will do this by purchasing goods, primarily accessories, with visible designer logos. As mentioned before, logos were a very prominent trend during the recession in 2008. Premium brands such as Coach and Michael Kors sold handbags and other accessories with the Coach “C’s” and Michael Kors “MK’s” printed all over. In fact, according to a 2009 NPR report, high fashion designers suffered greatly from the recession making premium brands the new “designer” (James, 2009). If the economy has a slow recovery, this could be the case again.
Another way any fashion student can tell that clothes will still matter is because as proven, fashion is a lifestyle. It is something many people truly love. Dressing properly triggers a positive and more productive mindset to the point where many working professionals and students are choosing to put themselves together during quarantine. A report on WGSN titled Stay Home Style: Design Capsule S/S 21 gives a guide on how to dress comfortably through minimalism without sacrificing style (Paget, 2020). However, if ones looks at any source directly from a component of the fashion industry, there will never be a statement saying “clothing won’t matter” for any circumstance. Therefore, to get a further accurate response for this topic, one must consider input from a mix of influencers, business professionals, students, or just the general public. In fact, this mix will be the consumers and they will be the ones to primarily determine if clothing will still matter. I have heard a countless number of students in my Zoom classes saying how they miss having a reason to dress up and how they can’t wait to have a reason to dress nice and put on makeup again. In addition, fashion influencer and YouTuber Freddy Cousin Brown dedicated a video on how to dress beautifully, yet comfortable during quarantine. A line that stuck out the most was “We could all use a bit of escapism” (Cousin Brown, 2020). Not only does Freddy want to show her viewers that they can still be stylish at home, she wants to continue creating fashion related content to brighten the mood and keep her viewers inspired. Clothes do, and will still continue to matter to influencers like Freddy and her 1.05 million subscribers. It is individuals like these fashion followers who make up a huge percentage of the consumers. In our modern day society, clothing has become more than just cloth we wear. It is a status symbol, a form of art, used as self-expression, and a widespread subject through the use of media and technology. In the past, hardships have definitely shaped clothing, but have never and will never take away their significance.
How can brands keep up their customer base now?
For a brand to keep up their customer base, they have to show them that they care. This is extremely important when it comes to luxury brands that cannot afford to significantly discount their goods since it would damage their prestige. There is no doubt about it, lower end brands ranging all the way up to premium are offering massive discounts to trigger impulsive sales during this time. This is to keep them from suffering an extreme loss. Social media sites such as Facebook and Instagram are constantly showing promotions from brands like Kate Spade, Fabletics, Savage X Fenty, and more are offering insane deals with discounts over 50% off as well as freebies. According to NBC Bay Area, businesses beyond retailers have to compensate for their lack in sales. Their article states “As the coronavirus outbreak shutters restaurants and stores across the United States, several companies have decided to offer discounts and deals to alleviate the closures’ financial, emotional and technological costs on consumers, institutions and other businesses” (NBC, 2020). Though these deals seem appealing on the surface, they are merely a last resort. With little need for new apparel and accessories, a poor economy, and the fear of bringing in germs, the majority of people are only purchasing necessities at the moment.
As mentioned before, a luxury company should not have to follow this lead. If they were to do so, their reputation and prestige would plummet. What luxury brands should do is show their loyal consumers that they care about their well-being and safety. Since brand salience and emotional connections are essential to luxury apparel brands, they should treat their consumers in a manner that will trigger a positive response. A good example would be Chanel. On their Instagram page, they are showing their followers what they can be doing at home to enjoy themselves while staying safe. In addition to promoting their luxuries, they are posting makeup tutorials to inspire their viewers to give certain looks a try. In addition to that, they are sticking to a theme of Mademoiselle Stays Home to enhance the importance of quarantine. (Chanel, 2020). However, one thing Chanel along with other luxury brands could be doing is posting content primarily relating to self-care that discreetly promotes the brands image without specific products. In addition, followers should be encouraged to write in the comments how they are coping with quarantine or whatever needs to be discussed to create a sense of community. This way, they can focus on the emotional connections they have with their consumers which is very important right now. By doing so, customers will be more likely to come back and shop once the pandemic is over.
What is Happening Now?
From the time I started conducting research and writing this report until now, a whole lot has changed. I began research on April second, and conducted my final round on research on the thirteenth and came to this conclusion after watching the predictions change rapidly. Despite how low the economy drops, people will still care about how they dress. However, that does not mean they will go out shopping, they will turn to the most sustainable method. Re-wearing what they already own. Even during the pandemic, individuals are still looking for reasons to dress up. For some it may be for Zoom meetings, others it may be for streamed church services. Despite the reasons, people still want to feel put together, but for obvious reasons, shopping for new apparel is not necessary. A brand new article from Vogue written by Anna Wintour addresses the questions the industry is asking. What should we do now? What will happen next? Will we recover? How will we recover? The list goes on. Anna Wintour wrote “But for all the damage we’ve seen, it is also clear that there is opportunity as well. Everyone we were speaking to seemed to agree: that fashion needs to change. That when we come back from this crisis—which we will—we should come back with purpose: stronger and more thoughtful and more sustainable in what we do” (Wintour, 2020). In this article, Anna Wintour announced that she will be hosting Vogue Global Conversations, a four day conference on Zoom to address all the problems workers in the industry are facing. This conference will include a range of designers, Vogue editors, and fashion company owners in both retail and manufacturing. The goal of this conference is to establish a sense of hope by coming up with solutions (Wintour, 2020). Since Anna Wintour knows the industry needs to see a major change in fashion, one can predict sustainability will continue to grow. This has been an issue environmentally ever since fast fashion emerged. In addition to that, with a drop in discretionary income, people will only be willing to buy sustainable clothing items (if they’re even buying clothing).
Looking into this issue from a monetary standpoint, Wintour predicts global sales in luxury fashion will drop up to 30% (CBS, 2020). With such a decrease in revenue, designers and fashion brands may not be able to afford runway shows for the upcoming seasons unless models volunteer. To potentially fix this issue, Wintour along with the CFDA launched A Common Thread which is part of the Vogue Fashion Fund. This was a platform originally created after 9/11 where people could share stories on their perspectives of the situation (Wintour 2020). Through A Common Thread, a sense of community could be brought together to once again establish hope and potentially generate new ideas to help. In addition, the more people who are brought onto A Common Thread, the more likely the Vogue Fashion Fund will receive donations. Those donations will help the industry restore from a production, artistic, and retail standpoint since they are intended to financially back up designers in need.
As stated before, despite how terrible the economy may become or how much the industry may suffer, fashion will always matter because it is a form of art that people live their lives in. Though sales may decrease, sustainability will rise. Once the pandemic is over and the economy has restored, celebratory fashion will emerge just like every other dark time in history. Though it may take a number of seasons, it will happen. Anna Wintour has already given us something needed worldwide, a sense of hope.
Works Cited
“1930-1939.” Fashion History Timeline, 5 Apr. 2019, fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1930-1939/.
“The Business of Fashion on Instagram: ‘Do We Still Need Fashion Shows? As the Deadly Coronavirus Continues Its Spread, the Travel Bans and Social Distancing Rules Adopted by…”.” Instagram, http://www.instagram.com/p/B-kO1HgFt5u/.
CBS News. “Anna Wintour on Efforts to Rescue the Fashion Industry.” CBS News, CBS Interactive, 9 Apr. 2020, http://www.cbsnews.com/video/anna-wintour-on-efforts-to-rescue-the-fashion-industry/.
Elizee, Naomi. “Get Zoom-Ready With 15 of the Best Working-From-Home Tops.” Vogue, Vogue, 3 Apr. 2020, http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/work-from-home-tops.
James, Frank. “High-Fashion Designers Ripped By Recession.” NPR, NPR, 11 Sept. 2009, http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2009/09/highfashion_designers_ripped_b.html.
Krentcil, Faran. “Ok, Fashion. What Happens Now in the Coronavirus Pandemic?” Harper’s BAZAAR, 6 Apr. 2020, http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a31955168/fashion-industry-coronavirus/.
Paget, Nick. “Stay Home Style: Design Capsule S/S 21 .” WGSN, http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86616/page/3.
Person, and ProfilePage. “CHANEL on Instagram: ‘BOLD-BLUE MONDAY Mascara, Eyeshadow, Eyeliner. Own the Total Blue Look. If Not Blue, Go Bold with Another Hue. GET THE LOOK: LE VOLUME…”.” Instagram, http://www.instagram.com/p/B-paEWDJlC6/.
Sherman, Lauren. “Case Study: The Next Wave of Luxury E-Commerce.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, 1 Apr. 2020, http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/education/case-study-luxury-ecommerce-online-retail.
Team, BoF. “The BoF Podcast: Charles Jeffrey on What It’s Like to Be a Rising Designer in the Midst of a Pandemic.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, 6 Apr. 2020, http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/podcasts/the-bof-podcast-charles-jeffrey-on-what-its-like-to-be-a-rising-designer-in-the-midst-of-a-pandemic.
Team, BoF. “The BoF Podcast: Li Edelkoort Says the Coronavirus Is a Representation of Our Conscience.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, 27 Mar. 2020, http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/podcasts/the-bof-podcast-li-edelkoort-on-how-covid-19-is-ushering-in-the-age-of-the-amateur.
Wintour, Anna. “Anna Wintour Announces ‘A Common Thread’ and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund for COVID-19 Relief.” Vogue, Vogue, 8 Apr. 2020, http://www.vogue.com/article/anna-wintour-cfda-fashion-fund-covid-19-coronavirus-relief.
Wintour, Anna. “Anna Wintour Introduces Vogue Global Conversations.” Vogue, Vogue, 13 Apr. 2020, http://www.vogue.com/article/anna-wintour-introduces-vogue-global-conversations.
Yotka, Steff. “’Vogue’ and the CFDA Launch the ‘A Common Thread’ Initiative to Support American Fashion.” Vogue, Vogue, 10 Apr. 2020, http://www.vogue.com/article/a-common-thread-video-series.
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